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2019年08月25日 01:03:44 | 作者:百科乐园 | 来源:新华社
China has only made it to one World Cup, in 2002, but there was some hope it would contribute to this year#39;s tournament following reports that a group of baby pandas in Sichuan would try to predict the outcome of matches in Brazil.中国唯一一次进入世界杯决赛圈是在2002年,人们原本希望中国为今年的世界杯做点贡献――此前有报道称,四川的一群大熊猫幼崽将尝试预测巴西世界杯的比赛结果。Chinese authorities have, however, intervened and scrapped the plan. A spokesman for the China Conservation and Research Center for Giant Pandas said the predictions were dropped over fears that the cubs would be overwhelmed by cameras and excited onlookers.但中国当局进行了干预并最终取消了这项计划。中国大熊猫保护和研究中心(China Conservation and Research Center for Giant Pandas)的发言人称,预测赛事的计划被取消是因为担心中心将挤满摄像机和兴奋的围观者。#39;The safety and health of pandas is most important. We won#39;t sacrifice it,#39; the center spokesman said.该中心的发言人称,大熊猫的安全和健康是最重要的事情,他们不会牺牲这一点。It is a harsh blow to the pandas#39; dreams of doing something useful with their lives beyond the daily grind of eating bamboo and being pressured into having sex. There is no point them filing a complaint at their designated grievance facility, otherwise known as a panda-moan-ium, because the decision appears final.这对大熊猫是一次沉重的打击。除了每天咀嚼竹子和被迫交配之外,它们原本还能做点有意义的事情。大熊猫无法提起申诉,因为这似乎已经是最后决定了。The pandas had been expected to predict the outcome of matches by either picking food from bowls marked with the national colors of competing teams, or climbing trees flying certain flags.大熊猫预测赛事的计划原本是这样设计的:在涂上足球队所属国家国旗颜色的碗中盛上食物,看看熊猫会选择哪个碗中的食物;或者看看熊猫会爬上哪棵树并挥舞某国的国旗。Paul the Octopus pioneered the grand tradition of animals picking World Cup winners after a dream run of forecasts for the 2010 tournament in South Africa. He also had a good record at Euro 2008. But Paul is dead, and the search for a worthy successor continues.章鱼保罗曾开启了动物预测世界杯结果的先河,它对2010年南非世界杯的比赛结果进行了预测。它2008年预测欧洲杯的成绩也很出色。但章鱼保罗已经去世了,人们仍在寻找和它一样优秀的继任者。U.K. tabloid the Sun proudly introduced its World Cup tipster -- Pele the Piranha - last week. The newspaper said its #39;Amazonian toothsayer#39; had correctly forecast the results of England#39;s three World Cup warm-up matches by picking one of three morsels of fish to eat.上周,英国小报《太阳报》(Sun)骄傲地推出了它的世界杯预测者――水虎鱼佩莱。该报称,佩莱通过从食物中三选一的方式成功预测了英格兰三场世界杯热身赛的结果。But Pele#39;s World Cup has got off to a poor start, as he predicted England would beat Italy in their opening match.但佩莱的世界杯预测之旅开局不力,它预计英格兰将在首战对阵意大利的比赛中获胜。#39;When offered the three choices for England#39;s opening game against Italy on Saturday, he showed no hesitation and munched the Cross of St George grub,#39; the Sun said.《太阳报》称,在预测周六英格兰对阵意大利的三种比赛结果时,它毫不犹豫地大嚼代表英格兰队将取胜的食物。Italy won 2-1.但最终意大利以2比1战胜了英格兰队。 /201406/305904Unless you think you#39;re the smartest, who doesn#39;t want to be smarter? Of course I want to be smarter too, so I try to find out who#39;s the real smart guy that maybe I can learn from. James Gardner has got me an answer on Quora about whether someone#39;s smart or not.除非你觉得自己聪明绝顶无人能敌,谁不想变得再聪明一点呢?我也是,所以我就想看看能从那些聪明的家伙身上学到点什么。美国著名演员詹姆斯·加纳就在Quora上回答了我,可用来判断一个人聪明不聪明。Here are the signs of smart people:下面是聪明人的10大信号:1. They don#39;t talk as much as you, because they know they got smart by listening.他们不会说太多,因为他们知道多听才能变聪明。2. They know lots of things other than what they#39;re specialised in. Theirs is the gift of a broad mind, constantly fed with the stimulant of being interested in what everyone else is doing.除去专业知识之外,他们知道的很多。他们的天赋就是思维活跃,总是对其他人在做的事情充满好奇和兴趣。3. They juggle home, work and personal interests with dexterity and never fall back on the tired old refrain about “work life balance”. And when they#39;re juggling, they somehow manage to seem 100% engaged with what they#39;re doing, on all fronts simultaneously, even though you know they#39;re taking appropriate steps behind the scenes to make sure their lives are perfectly, serenely balanced.他们把家庭、工作和个人兴趣完美平衡,从来不会为“平衡工作和生活”这样的事情伤脑筋。当他们玩的时候,似乎会全身心的投入在这件事上面,他们面面俱到,虽然你很清楚,其实背后他们努力的走好每一步来让生活更加完美、更加平衡。4. They probably do social media. Not always, but probably. It is not only another chance to listen, but one they use to ensure they can feed their brains with things they otherwise wouldn#39;t have come across.也许他们会涉足社交媒体。不是一贯如此,只是有可能而已。这也是另外一个倾听的机会,但他们往往关注的是那些从没有经历过的事情。5. Even when things go very badly wrong, they#39;ll be smiling. Smart people never get ruffled because their smart brains present them with alternatives faster than the bad stuff can happen.即使事情发展很糟糕,他们也会面带微笑。聪明的人永远不会被打倒,他们的大脑永远都会在坏事发生之前,火速想好其他的解决方案。6. They know they are usually the smartest person in the room, but they don#39;t spend their time dwelling on that. Instead, they take it as a personal challenge to see if they can make everyone else the smartest person in the room too.他们知道自己是屋子里最聪明的人,但不会花时间去沾沾自喜。相反,他们会把这当做对自己的挑战:看他们是不是能把屋子里的其他人也变得一样的聪明。7. If they are managers, they will make every effort to get people smarter, more connected and more popular than them in their teams. They#39;re not threatened because they know that smartness is synergistic. They also make sure that their smart people get to look smarter than them for the same reason.如果他们是经理级别的人物,他们会努力让别人在整个团队中看上去比他们还要聪明、亲密和受欢迎。他们不会感到威胁,因为聪明有相互促进的作用。同理,他们也会确保这些聪明人看起来更聪明。8. They have hidden skills that never get rolled out until they#39;re needed. They don#39;t have any need to show their full capabilities for reasons of proving they#39;re better than others.不到万不得已,他们不会展现出自己的所有技能,无需仅仅为了明自己比别人厉害而去秀自己的能力。9. They may or may not have expensive educations. You#39;d never know, just by being with them unless you had their CV in front of you.他们也许没有受到非常高端的教育,除非看到他们的简历,否则你永远都无从得知。10. They never, ever, under any circumstances, make you look stupid, even though it would be easy to do so. They#39;ve learnt through bitter experience that the only thing that happens when you make someone look bad is you look bad yourself.在任何情况下,他们绝对绝对不会让你看起来很愚笨,哪怕这是件轻而易举的事情。因为从过去的教训中他们学到的是,让别人看起来糟糕的唯一手段就是让自己也出洋相。Now you should know who the smart people are. If you want to be the smart one, let me give you this extra advice from Steve Jobs “Stay hungry. Stay foolish.现在你应该知道谁才是聪明人了吧。如果你想变得聪明,再送你一句话,就是乔帮主那句经典的名言:“求知若饥,虚心若愚;。 /201309/256743

When young lovers dream of a romantic European dinner in a back-street hideaway packed with locals, those back streets tend to be in Paris or Florence, not Düsseldorf or Nuremberg. When thrill-seeking diners book long-distance travel to taste some pathbreaking chef’s strange new inventions, their planes land in places like Barcelona or Copenhagen, not Leipzig or Dresden.当年轻情侣梦想着在隐匿于偏僻街巷的地方与当地人挤在一起享受一顿浪漫的欧式晚餐时,那些背街深巷往往是在巴黎或佛罗伦萨,而不是杜塞尔多夫或纽伦堡。当寻求刺激的食客为了一尝某些具有开拓精神的大厨的新奇菜品而预订长途机票时,他们飞抵的目的地也是巴塞罗那或哥本哈根之类的地方,而非莱比锡或德累斯顿。Although the 2013 Michelin Guide paid lavish attention to Germany, awarding 3 stars to 10 restaurants there, neither those restaurants nor their chefs are household names in any country but their own. When Germany flexes its economic muscle, other countries jump to attention. When it shows off its gastronomic power, they shrug.尽管《2013年米其林指南》(2013 Michelin Guide)对德国青睐有加,将那里的10家餐厅评为三星,但一出了德国,那些店铺和它们的主厨就谈不上家喻户晓了。当德国展现自己的经济实力时,其他国家都会争先恐后地予以关注。当它展示自己的美食实力时,别人却不过是耸耸肩。Anytime the world seems to have made a secret pact to ignore a subject, curious minds grow even more curious. So off I went last month on a brief but industrious eating tour of Germany. I traveled to three of the cities foreigners are most likely to visit, Munich, Frankfurt and Berlin, making reservations in relatively new restaurants. None of them were especially luxurious or expensive compared with the rarefied dining rooms that are catnip to the Michelin Guide.无论何时,当全世界似乎达成了一项秘密协定,一起忽视某件事时,那些好奇心重的人就会变得愈发好奇。因此,我上个月去德国进行了一趟短暂却行程紧凑的美食之旅。我拜访了外国人最有可能去的三座城市:慕尼黑、法兰克福和柏林,预订了较新的餐厅。与《米其林指南》推荐的那些考究的餐厅相比,我选的那些地方都不太豪华,也不太昂贵。Around the same time, my colleague Frank Bruni was pursuing a similar assignment in China, following similar rules. Unlike me, he stuck to the rules. I bent them to write about a very good meal I had in Frankfurt at Weinsinn, which opened at the end of 2009. My rationale: In its first months, Weinsinn was a wine bar, and didn’t begin to evolve into a restaurant until it hired its current chef, André Rickert, the following year.大约同一时间,我的同事弗兰克·布鲁尼(Frank Bruni)也在中国进行类似的任务,遵循的规则大致一样。与我不同的是,他严格遵守了规则。我则有所放宽,以便能写写在法兰克福的Weinsinn餐厅享受的一顿美食。这家餐厅2009年底开业。我的理由是:在开业后的头几个月,Weinsinn还是一家葡萄酒吧,直到第二年请到了现在的大厨安德烈·里克特(André Rickert),它才开始向餐厅转型。ALL THE ACTION IS ON THE PLATE出之处尽在餐盘之中Mr. Rickert has a modernist’s skill set and a modernist’s talent for combining the serious and the playful. Look what he does to ratatouille. Even its fans have to admit that the dish, a lump of stewed vegetables mired in a tar pit of olive oil, is usually no great beauty. Mr. Rickert’s version is a colorful, bright, edible garden, a field of couscous across which he plants black olives, shards of feta, a bright green mound of basil ice cream and warm cherry tomatoes that dissolved into sweet pulp on my tongue like berries in a pie.在将严肃和活泼结合起来这一点上,里克特身怀一套现代技术,也具有现代才华。看看他对蔬菜杂烩的改进吧。即便是喜欢这道菜的人也必须承认,它的卖相通常并不怎么样。这道菜是各种炖菜混在一起,埋在黏糊糊的橄榄油里。出自里克特之手的蔬菜杂烩却是一座色缤纷亮丽的美食园,蒸粗麦粉上点缀着黑橄榄、羊乳酪碎、一个翠绿的罗勒冰激凌球和暖色调的圣女果。在舌尖上,圣女果会融化成甜甜的果肉,犹如馅饼里的浆果。The ingredients were strewn all across the plate, but the flavors were firmly rooted. That was the case, too, with a dessert of late-summer damson plums that appeared in three guises: stuffed into a tender dumpling, frozen into sorbet and poached with cinnamon syrup.食材铺满了整个盘子,但却完全保持了独特的味道。还有一道甜点也是如此。它用暮夏时节的西洋李子制成,以三种形式呈现:填进细滑的布丁里、冷冻成果汁雪糕,或是炖肉桂糖浆。Weinsinn is compact, with only 35 seats in two small dining rooms. So is Mr. Rickert’s of three appetizers, three main courses and three desserts. The wine list, on the other hand, goes on for page after page, although there is a simpler way. We asked the sommelier, Jens Gabelmann, to choose for us. He sized up our table at a glance and brought us just the wine we might have asked for if we had been able to put our wishes into words.Weinsinn餐厅小巧紧凑,两片面积不大的就餐区仅能容纳35名食客。里克特的菜单也同样精巧,上面只有三道开胃菜、三道主菜和三道甜点。话说回来,酒单却是翻完一页又一页,不过倒是有种简单点的办法。我们请侍酒师延斯·加贝尔曼(Jens Gabelmann)帮忙挑选。扫了一眼我们的餐桌后,他拿来的酒正合心意,如果我们能用语言表达出来的话。THE BEST OF A LONG-O EMPIRE古老帝国的极致菜肴Across the city is the current headquarters of Mario Lohninger, a chef who has cooked at restaurants formal (he ran the kitchen at the greatly missed Danube, in Manhattan, when it won three stars from The New York Times) and informal (after Danube closed, he founded Silk, a “bed-restaurant” in a Frankfurt nightclub where patrons wore slippers and ate lying down).城市的另一头是马里奥·洛宁格尔(Mario Lohninger)现在的安身立命之所。洛宁格尔大厨在正儿八经的餐厅(在人们深深怀念的曼哈顿多瑙河餐厅[Danube],他曾掌管厨房,那里当时赢得了《纽约时报》的三星评价)和轻松随意的地方(多瑙河关张后,他在法兰克福的一家夜店创立了“床式”餐吧丝绸[Silk],那里的顾客穿着拖鞋,躺着吃东西)都掌过勺。Three years ago he opened Lohninger in an elbow-shaped, salmon-colored building on the south bank of the Main River. The name is not egotism. This is a Lohninger family production, where Mr. Lohninger’s father works by his side in the kitchen and his mother patrols the dining room with a protective eye. When she spotted a runaway squiggle of spaetzle on my white tablecloth, she clucked softly and scurried off to get a crumb sweeper.三年前,他在美茵河南岸一栋刷成了浅橙色的弧形大楼里开设了洛宁格尔餐厅。起这个名字并不是出于自大,而是因为这是洛宁格尔全家开的店。在这里,他的父亲会在厨房里和他并肩工作,母亲则会带着关切的眼神巡视就餐区。发现我这一桌的白色桌布上有掉出来的一根鸡蛋面疙瘩时,她轻啧一声,然后匆忙拿来了清理碎屑的刷子。Mr. Lohninger has an instinct for locating the most pleasurable component of a dish and then intensifying it. Schmaltz piled onto brown b is good, and so Mr. Lohninger’s schmaltz, sweet with puréed pumpkin and crunchy with flakes of crisp chicken skin, must be very, very good. It is. It arrives once you have chosen from the , which is split into parts that mirror Mr. Lohninger’s life. One side is called The World. On it, far-flung ingredients turn up like souvenirs from his time abroad. This is where you will find his interpretation of the black cod that he first ate in New York, served in a smoky broth with radish cannelloni.洛宁格尔有一种锁定菜肴最令人赏心悦目的部分,然后将其发扬光大的本能。黑面包抹上厚厚的动物油味道不错,因此出自洛宁格尔之手的动物油肯定也会非常非常可口。的确如此。里面既有南瓜泥的香甜,又有小块炸鸡皮带来的松脆。只要客人在菜单上点了这道菜,它立马就会被端上桌。菜单的划分体现出了洛宁格尔的生活经历。单子上有一面名叫世界佳肴(The World)。这里有来自异国他乡的食材,仿佛是他在海外生活期间搜罗的纪念品。你会看到他对黑鳕鱼的诠释。在纽约时,他第一次吃到了这种鱼。在这里,则是放在热腾腾的高汤里,佐以小萝卜面卷。A SAFE CHOICE OR A DIZZYING GAMBLE要么选择保守,要么来一次令人眩晕的In Munich, I ran into another split-personality at a restaurant called Geisels Werneckhof. In this case, the division results from the restaurant’s, and perhaps the city’s, cautious approach to change.在慕尼黑时,在一家叫做“盖泽尔家的韦尔内克霍夫”(Geisels Werneckhof)的餐厅里,我又偶然发现了一份反映出对立个性的菜单。这种分化体现了这家餐厅,乃至这座城市对变革的谨慎态度。For years the place served traditional food to residents of its snug neighborhood close to the English Garden. Two years ago, it was taken over by the Geisel family, but the landlady made them promise not to touch the leaded-glass windows, the chandeliers that still burn candles or any of the other classic German details in the dining room. She gave them free rein to change the kitchen, though.很多年里,这家店都在为英格兰花园附近温馨街区的居民供应传统食物。两年前,店面被盖泽尔家族接手,但女房东让他们承诺不得改动就餐区的水晶玻璃窗、依然点蜡烛的枝形吊灯,或是其他的经典德式装饰细节。不过,她允许他们自由改装厨房。Tohru Nakamura took her up on it. The chef since April, Mr. Nakamura was born in Munich and learned to cook there before going off to study new techniques at restaurants in Japan and the Netherlands. To get the effects he had learned abroad, he had the kitchen outfitted with induction cooktops, a teppanyaki griddle, liquid nitrogen tanks and a Big Green Egg ceramic grill.中村彻(Tohru Nakamura,音译)抓住了房东赋予的这个机会。去年4月开始担任这家餐厅主厨的中村在慕尼黑出生,并在当地学习烹饪,后来又去了日本和荷兰的餐厅学习新技巧。为了发挥在国外学到的厨艺,他为厨房配备了电磁炉、铁板烧烤盘、液氮罐和一台大绿蛋牌(Big Green Egg)陶瓷烤炉。Now he was y for the new international style of cooking. The Werneckhof’s regulars weren’t, though — not all of them. For them, Mr. Nakamura devotes one-half of his to fairly uncomplicated, if refined, dishes in which a single, familiar ingredient carries the tune. His lean and precise artichoke barigoule, rounded out with a classically thick artichoke velouté and a fat poached oyster, won’t scare anybody except those who fear harmonious flavors and luxurious textures.就这样,他为全新的国际化烹饪方式做好了准备,但韦尔内克霍夫餐厅的常客并不都喜欢这些东西。为了他们,中村把一半菜单用来呈现那些,说得委婉点,不那么复杂的菜肴。在这些菜里,只用一种耳熟能详的食材来奠定基调。中村清淡却又恰到好处的洋蓟炖菜,配上标准浓度的洋蓟白汁和一只肥美的水煮牡蛎,会让所有人震惊,除了那些害怕味道协调、口感丰富的人。The other half of the can get pretty far out there, at least by Munich standards. I was deeply impressed by an elaborate composition of tender octopus, ginger-marinated squid, potatoes boiled with onions and bacon, and strips of daikon smoked in the Big Green Egg. Nothing too outrageous about this, but things got complicated in the sauce department: there was a Parmesan cream, a jelly of bone marrow, a miso gel, a garlicky aioli, a drizzle of browned butter, and a rustic vinaigrette with capers and anchovies. When Mr. Nakamura later detailed the dish for me, I felt as dizzy as if I had stepped out onto an airplane wing. At the time, though, I mostly noticed that every last thing on the plate was delicious.菜单的另一半则列着大相径庭的菜肴,至少以慕尼黑的标准来看是这样。一道由细嫩的章鱼肉、经过姜汁浸泡的鱿鱼、与熏肉和洋葱一起煮的土豆,以及大绿蛋里烤制的萝卜条做成的精致菜肴让我印象深刻。这些都还不太令人吃惊,但到了调味汁部分,就变得复杂起来:有帕尔马乳酪、骨髓冻、胶状味增、蒜泥蛋黄酱、些许焦化黄油,以及带有刺山柑和凤尾鱼的油醋汁。当中村后来向我详细介绍这道菜时,我感到一阵眩晕,像是抬脚踩上了机翼一样。不过当时,我只是觉得,盘子里的每样东西都是美味。KEEPING THE JOY ON THE MENU让菜单散发出愉悦The half-old, half-new at Geisels Werneckhof reminded me of something Justin Leone, an American sommelier working at a very good Munich restaurant called Tantris, had written to me in an e-mail. Compared with fad-chasing Americans, he wrote, Bavarians have “a tremendous appreciation for consistency and longevity.” To see a city that was crazy for a taste of the new, he advised me to hit Berlin.盖泽尔家的韦尔内克霍夫餐厅一半传统、一半创新的菜单让我想起了美国侍酒师贾斯廷·莱昂内(Justin Leone)在给我的一封电子邮件中写到的内容。他在一家非常棒的慕尼黑餐厅工作,名叫Tantris。邮件中写道,相比于追逐时髦的美国人,巴伐利亚人“极为崇尚协调统一和源远流长”。如果想看看为尝新而疯狂的城市,他建议我去柏林。Perhaps the most dynamic chef in Berlin is Tim Raue, who as a teenager ran with a street gang in the Kreuzberg neighborhood and then found his home in restaurant kitchens. By 2010, he had opened a place of his own around the corner from Checkpoint Charlie, Restaurant Tim Raue, but he wanted it to be different from the formal, classical, French-influenced dining rooms that he believed were draining the joy out of German fine dining.蒂姆·劳厄(Tim Raue)或许是柏林最有活力的厨师。十几岁时,他和街头帮派混迹于克罗伊茨贝格一带。后来,他在餐厅后厨找到了自己的天地。2010年,他在查理检查哨附近的街角开了属于自己的蒂姆·劳厄餐厅(Restaurant Tim Raue)。但他希望这家店和那些受法国影响的古典正式餐厅有所不同,因为他觉得那些地方抽走了德式美食的乐趣。“I wanted to have a restaurant in Germany where people could be happy,” he said. His was built around bright, exciting flavors from China, Vietnam and Thailand. To let customers know that fun was not forbidden, he dressed his dining room staff in Chuck Taylor high-tops. The sneakers put a spring in their steps, although when my server pulled on a single white glove to set down clean silverware, I couldn’t stop humming “Thriller.”“我希望在德国开一家让人们觉得开心的餐厅,”他说。他的菜单以中国、越南和泰国的菜式为基础,颜色鲜亮、令人兴奋。为了让客人们知道店里推崇玩乐,他让就餐区员工穿Chuck Taylor高帮帆布鞋。这种运动鞋会让他们走路时好似脚踩弹簧,当我的侍应生拿出一只白手套,开始摆放干净的银质餐具时,我忍不住哼起了《颤栗》(Thriller)。And I was almost y to moonwalk when I tasted the restaurant’s Chinese-style suckling pig. A fold of pork belly had been red-cooked and then deep-fried, giving it a gentle sweetness under a terrifically crunchy layer of skin. I couldn’t make up my mind whether I liked it better dipped in the little pile of salt and Sichuan peppercorns, or dredged in a reduction made from pigs’ feet and dried tangerine peel.吃到这里的中式乳猪时,我都快要跳太空步了。因为相继经过红烧和充分油炸,五花肉那一层肉皮酥脆可口,底下的肉则稍稍有些甜味。我拿不定主意,自己到底是更喜欢蘸着那一小碟椒盐吃呢,还是撒上猪蹄和陈皮做成的佐料?WHAT THEY#39;LL DO FOR GOOD PASTRAMI为了上乘的五香熏牛肉,他们一往无前Like Brooklyn or Portland, Ore., Berlin is now full of cooks trying to make a living out of barbecue, bao and other populist staples. For sheer determination and stubbornness, I doubt many of them can match Paul Mogg and Oskar Melzer, who opened a New York-style deli because they couldn’t find an easier way to get a good pastrami sandwich.就像布鲁克林或俄勒冈州的波特兰一样,柏林现在到处都是想借烤肉和包子一类的平民主食谋生的厨师。就坚定的决心和执着而言,我怀疑他们中的许多人都比不上保罗·莫格(Paul Mogg)和奥斯卡·梅尔策(Oskar Melzer)。他们两人开了一家纽约风格的熟食店,原因是,他们找不到吃到上乘五香熏牛肉三明治的更简便的办法。They sampled pastrami imports, hoping for greatness. “These packages were showing up with the Statue of Liberty on the package, and the pastrami was so dry and sweet it was like a candy cane,” said Mogg amp; Melzer’s chef, Joey Passarella. A native of Nyack, N.Y., Mr. Passarella met his partners while cooking in Berlin restaurants. After some arm-twisting, he agreed to take on the task of brining briskets in the restaurant’s basement and smoking them in the backyard.他们对进口的五香熏牛肉进行了品尝,希望找到超凡脱俗的口味。“它们的包装上有自由女神像,里面的熏肉却非常干,非常甜,像甘蔗似的,”莫格与梅尔策餐厅(Mogg amp; Melzer)的大厨乔伊·帕萨雷拉(Joey Passarella)说。他是土生土长的纽约州奈阿克人,在柏林当厨师时,遇到了现在的合作伙伴。经过一番讨价还价,他同意承担起在餐厅地下室腌制牛胸肉并在后院进行熏制的工作。His pastrami is quietly smoky, noticeably peppery, not too salty, flagrantly pink. Sliced and layered on excellent, fresh, un-spongy rye modeled on the b from Schwartz’s deli in Montreal and sp with a close approximation of brown deli mustard from Düsseldorf, it adds up to a pastrami on rye that only a handful of delis in New York can match.他制成的五香熏牛肉稍稍有些烟熏味,胡椒味很明显,咸味不太重,呈正宗的粉色。熏好的牛肉被切成片,一层一层地放在如同蒙特利尔施瓦茨熟食店(Schwartz’s)的上好新鲜紧实黑麦面包上,并被抹上了类似于杜塞尔多夫棕色熟食芥末的酱料。于是,便有了这道只有纽约少数几家熟食店可以与之媲美的熏牛肉黑麦面包三明治。Mogg amp; Melzer stretches a short distance outside the deli genre. There is a br#251;léed chicken liver mousse, for instance, and a compact but thoughtful wine list. If you come in the morning, you can ask your server for lox dusted with fresh horseradish and chives on a chewy, unsweetened hand-rolled bagel, which you can’t do at Katz’s in Manhattan, and watch the cooks working behind glass shelves lined with house-made beet pickles bob their heads to rap while steam rises from superbly light and jiggly cheesecakes resting on the window ledge.莫格与梅尔策餐厅稍稍扩展了熟食店的范畴。比如,店里有一种焗鸡肝慕斯,还有一张简短却细心周到的酒单。如果上午来,你可以向务员点撒有新鲜西洋山葵和香葱的熏鲑鱼,配上耐嚼的原味手卷百吉饼。在曼哈顿的卡茨店(Katz’s),这可是办不到的。你还能看到,在放着一排自制腌甜菜的玻璃隔板后工作的厨师闲聊时频频点头,窗台上超级松软而诱人的奶酪蛋糕正冒着气。That Jewish food is now cooked and eaten there certainly resonates in many directions. And I would like the building’s story to have a happy ending. But I can’t honestly write that the pastrami and bagels and cheesecake have any meaning that is deeper than their own quality. They are simply very good.在那里,人们会烹制和享用犹太食物,这一点肯定会带来诸多反响。我希望这家店的故事有一个完美的结局。但我实在没法说,五香熏牛肉、百吉饼和奶酪蛋糕有什么超出它们品质的意义。它们就是真的非常好吃。 /201411/339914

Why is it, even though you’re in a relationship–maybe even in love–you still feel so unhappy and unsatisfied with your partner? Is this what sharing your life with someone is supposed to be like? Maybe everything you thought you knew about love is wrong because when you’re with you’re partner you don’t feel swept off your feet, you don’t feel butterflies in your stomach…what you feel like is something more like anxiety. Here are four warning signs to tell if you’re in a toxic relationship.为什么即使处在一段充满爱的关系里,你仍然会对伴侣感到不满意?难道跟恋人分享自己的生活本是这般模样?也许你原本关于爱情的一切认知都是错误的。因为当你与恋人在一起时你没有被迷得神魂颠倒,也没有心跳加速,反而更多的是焦虑。下面四种迹象教你辨别你的恋爱是否出现了问题: /201406/306208

While some choose to keep a diary or write a blog, retiree Bill Passman has found a novel way to ensure his travelling adventures remain a permanent fixture in his life.为了纪念自己旅行的所到之处,有的人可能选择记日记或者写客,而退休的比尔·帕斯曼则找到了一个新法子,来把他的旅行经历永远地铭刻在自己的人生中。For the 59-year-old has opted to keep track of his globe-trotting exploits by tattooing a map of the world on his back and then colouring in the countries as he goes along.这位59岁的退休律师选择用纹身的方式,来将自己的环球探险经历一一记录。他在背上纹了一张世界地图,每去一个国家,就把那个国家纹上颜色。Mr Passman caught the travel bug after he got his first passport in 2006 aged 51 - and decided to record his experiences on his own body.在2006年比尔·帕斯曼51岁时,他第一次办理了护照,就有了旅游的癖好,并打算将自己的旅游经历记录在自己的身体上。In 2010, the former lawyer quit his job and and got a map of the world inked across his back - and vowed to spend nine months of the year seeing the world.2010年,这位前律师辞了职并在背后纹上了世界地图,还发誓将花9个月的时间走遍全球。As he visits each new country, he has a tattoo artist fill in the border outline - and hopes to complete the map one day.每当他造访一个国家,他就让纹身师把自己背后的那个“国家”纹上颜色。比尔希望有一天它能够完成这幅色的“世界地图”。 /201402/276269

Is clutter weighing you down at home and the office?家里和办公室的杂乱无章是不是正让你感到不堪负重?Not sure where to start when it comes to clearing things out?一提起清扫整理,都不知道该怎么开始?Here are 10 clutter-clearing ideas to help you simplify and streamline your life.下面10招就能教你如何精简生活!1. Tidy up your desk整理办公桌Do you find it difficult to work on your desk or find office supplies when you need them? Remove old sticky notes, outdated papers and notes, junk mail, magazines, as well as any obvious trash and wrappers from your work space. Corral office supplies such as pens, paper clips and pushpins in small decorative containers, or store items in flat storage bins or trays in your desk drawers. Don’t forget to chuck any broken office supplies or dead plants that are on your desk or sitting in your office.是不是觉得桌上乱得无法做事?是不是在需要时怎么也翻不到某个物品?那就赶紧清理掉办公室里的过期便利贴、纸头便条、垃圾邮件、杂志,还有各种碍眼的杂物和包装纸吧。把铅笔、回形针、图钉等文具用品放到一个小盒子里,或者将物品归类到抽屉里的收纳盒中。别忘了扔掉办公桌或办公室里坏掉的文具和枯死的植物! /201402/275969

The country that launched the “Battle of the Bulge” in World War II is now leading the way in the battle over a different kind of bulge.作为二战“突出部战役”的发起者,现在德国又在另一种“突出部”之战中走在了世界前列。German men went under the knife for 2,786 penile enlargement surgeries in 2013, according to the International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ISAPS), which today released its 2014 global stats report. That’s a much larger tally than the other nine countries that provided sufficient survey data this year, including the U.S., Mexico, Spain, Italy and Brazil. Other than Iran, the U.S. had the fewest penile enhancement surgeries, at only 61. The report tallies surgeries performed last year.国际美容整形外科学会(ISAPS)于7月31日公布的全球行业数据报告显示,2013年有2786名德国男性接受了生殖器增大手术。和美国、墨西哥、西班牙、意大利、巴西和伊朗等另外9个提供了足够调查数据的国家相比,德国在这方面遥遥领先。除了伊朗,美国男性接受这种手术的人数最少,只有61例。ISAPS的这份报告对2013年的整形手术数量进行了统计。There are other compelling tidbits to be gleaned from the data. In contrast to its lack of interest in penis enlargements, the U.S. is leading the way in breast augmentation surgeries (more than 313,000 to Brazil’s 226,000; those two nations trounced all others in this category). But don’t be quick to assume that means American women are more eager than non-American women to enhance their bodies. The data are broken down by geographic location but not nationality, which means that it was not necessarily all American citizens undergoing the surgeries performed in America. For the purposes of the annual survey, the ISAPS reached out to some 35,000 plastic surgeons around the world. The countries that responded with the most data were the U.S., Brazil, Mexico, Germany, Spain, Colombia, Italy, Venezuela, Argentina and Iran.该报告的数据中还包含着其他一些有趣的东西。和美国男性对生殖器增大术缺乏兴趣的局面相反,美国在隆胸术方面名列前茅(超过31.3万例,巴西为22.6万例,这两个数字远远超过其他国家)。但不要因此迅速认定美国女性比其他国家的女性更热衷于整形。这些数据的划分标准是地域,而不是国籍,也就是说在美国接受整形手术的未必都是美国人。为进行本次年度调查,ISAPS联系了全球3.5万名整形医生。提供反馈信息最多的国家是美国、巴西、墨西哥、德国、西班牙、哥伦比亚、意大利、委内瑞拉、阿根廷和伊朗。Dr. Eric Halvorson, who does cosmetic and reconstructive surgeries at the Brigham and Womens Hospital in Boston, Mass., had no guess as to why Germany would be leading the penile enhancement charge, but he told Fortune that, of course, standards of aesthetic beauty vary by country, and the surgeries reflect that.埃里克o霍尔沃森士是马萨诸塞州波士顿布里格姆女子医院(Brigham and Womens Hospital)美容和再造整形医生。他没有猜测为什么接受生殖器增大术的德国男性最多,但他在接受《财富》杂志(Fortune)采访时表示,各个国家的审美观点当然不同,整形手术就体现了这一点。Take women, for example, who had 87% of the total plastic surgeries in the world. “In the U.S., women tend to want to be thin with large breasts, whereas in a country like Brazil, women want to have small breasts and a larger buttocks,” Halvorson explained.女性占全球整形手术接受者的87%。以她们为例,霍尔沃森士介绍说:“在美国,女性往往希望自己身材纤细、胸部丰满;而在巴西这样的国家,女性则希望胸部小一些,臀部大一些。”“It’s amazing: take the same woman’s body, and in one country they’d be going to get their breasts reduced and their buttocks augmented, and in the other they’d be getting larger breasts,” he added.霍尔沃森士表示:“这很奇妙。同为女性,在这个国家她们会缩胸隆臀,而在那个国家她们则要隆胸。”Breast enhancement was, unsurprisingly, the most common type of plastic surgery worldwide in 2013, with 1.77 million performed globally, beating out simple eyelid surgeries, of which there were 1.38 million. But augmentation is only one type of breast surgery, a category that also includes breast lift, breast reduction, and gynecomastia surgery (reduction of abnormally large breasts in men). The U.S. accounted for 15% of breast surgeries in the world, just edging out the 14.9% performed in Brazil. Other operations measured in the ISAPS survey include tummy tucks (Brazil had the most; the U.S. is a close second), vaginal rejuvenation or labiaplasty (Brazil and Germany both had more than the U.S.) and buttock augmentation or gluteoplasty (the U.S. was only fourth here, after Brazil, Mexico and Colombia).2013年全球最普遍的整形手术是隆胸术,这并不让人感到意外。此类手术的数量是177万例,超过了较为简单的眼睑成形术,后者的数量为138万例。但胸部整形并不仅仅是丰胸,它还包括下垂矫正、缩胸和男性乳腺发育(即男性乳腺的不正常增大)手术。美国占全球胸部整形手术的15%,稍高于巴西的14.9%。ISAPS的调查还包括腹壁整形术(巴西最多,美国紧随其后)、阴道修复和阴唇整形术(巴西和德国都超过了美国)以及隆臀和提臀手术(美国仅居第四,前三名是巴西、墨西哥和哥伦比亚)。This was in fact the first time ever that Brazil topped the U.S. for most surgical procedures performed. Although America has 15.2% of the world’s plastic surgeons (Brazil is catching up, with 13.6%), Brazil had 12.9% of the world’s aesthetic/cosmetic surgical procedures, compared to 12.5% by the U.S. That’s not to be confused with non-surgical procedures, which have risen more than ever before and which the U.S. leads by a wide margin. This category of shorter, cheaper procedures includes injections of Botox or soft-tissue fillers, skin lasers and skin-tightening devices, fat-melting and fat-freezing devices.实际上,这是巴西在整形手术数量上首次超过美国。虽然美国拥有全球15.2%的整形外科医生(巴西正在缩小和美国的差距,目前有13.6%的整形医生),但巴西进行的美容整形手术数量占全球12.9%,高于美国的12.5%。不要把这些和非手术整形搞混了——非手术整形正以前所未有的速度增长,而且美国在这方面遥遥领先于其他国家。这种方法耗时短,价格低,具体做法有注射保适妥(Botox)或软组织填充剂,使用激光美肤治疗仪、紧肤治疗仪、燃脂纤体仪和冷冻溶脂仪。Dr. Renato Saltz, who is vice president of ISAPS (and grew up in Brazil), says non-surgical procedures have been riding a wave ever since 2008 and 2009, when there was a slow-down in surgical procedures due to the economic crisis.ISAPS副总裁雷纳托o萨尔茨在巴西长大。他说,2008-2009年的经济危机造成整形手术增长放缓,从那以后,非手术整形一直处于高速发展状态。“Patients couldn’t afford the big-ticket operation, but they still did something,” said Saltz. “They did some laser, some Botox, they still wanted to look better despite the financial crunch.”萨尔茨指出:“整形者无力接受花费很高的手术,但他们仍有所动作。有些进行了激光治疗,有些注射了保适妥,他们依然想变得好看,并没有受到金融危机的影响。”In 2010, the U.S. numbers for surgical procedures finally started growing again, and non-surgical procedures have continued to rise. In 2013, Americans spent more than billion on cosmetic procedures, according to ASAPS, the American-focused version of ISAPS. That was up 12% from 2012. Some billion of that was on non-surgical work.2010年,美国的整形手术数量终于再次上升,非手术整形数量也继续增长。美国美容整形外科学会(ASAPS)的数据显示,2013年美国人在美容整形方面的出超过了120亿美元,比2012年增长了12%,其中约50亿美元花在非手术整形上。“In my practice we’re seeing more and more patients coming in who don’t want to have actual surgery, or don’t want to pay for it or wait for it,” Saltz said. “They come in, they’re on their laptops during the procedure, and then they leave and 25% of the fat in their tummy is gone. These are certified procedures that didn’t exist five or ten years ago, and that change we’re seeing is amazing.”萨尔茨说:“从我的实际经验来看,越来越多的人并不想真的动手术,有人是不愿意花这笔钱,有人是不愿意等待。来的人在整形过程中都在玩笔记本电脑,离开时他们肚子上的脂肪就会减少25%。这些获得认的手术近5年,或者近10年才出现。我们看到的变化令人惊讶。”Ask Dr. Halverson, though, and he’ll tell you that the general lack of knowledge about non-surgical procedures is one of the frustrating things about being in the plastic surgery field of medicine.不过,如果问霍尔沃森,他会告诉你,人们对非手术整形普遍缺乏了解,这对整形医生来说是令人沮丧的一件事。“I think reality TV and the media has done a lot to show plastic surgeries and raise consciousness and make it seem okay; people always used to hide it, but now people are much more open about it, it’s much more acceptable to have had surgery,” said Halvorson.霍尔沃森说:“电视真人秀和媒体已经让人们看到了许多整形手术,提高了人们的整形意识和接受度。以前人们总是要隐瞒这种事情,但现在人们对它的开放程度要高了很多,接受整形手术的程度也高了很多。”“The downside of [reality shows about plastic surgery] is that they reinforce the public perception that plastic surgery is nothing more than cosmetic surgery,” he added. “If you look at the classic text for our field, there are ten volumes, and only one of those is cosmetic. We do burn surgery, breast reconstruction, cranial and facial trauma, tissue transfers, a whole range. But that’s one of my pet peeves, is that for the rest of my life, when I go to cocktail parties and people ask what I do, I always have to follow it with various qualifying statements.”他同时指出:“[整形手术真人秀]不利的一面在于它们让公众越发认为整形手术就是美容整形。看一下我们这个领域的普通记录就会发现,只有十分之一的整形是美容手术。我们治疗烧伤,做胸部再造,修复头部和面部损伤,做组织移植,无所不包。这也是让我头疼的问题之一,当别人在鸡尾酒会上问我是干什么的,我总是得对整形医生这个词做许多解释,不知道会不会这辈子一直这样。”It isn’t just television that has had an impact, but also the Web, in the opinion of Dr. Saltz.在萨尔茨看来,产生影响的不光是电视,还有网络。“With the Internet, beauty has been sort of globalized,” he noted. “So you have Brazilian patients who want to look like Angelina Jolie. One of the fastest growing things in the U.S. is butt augmentation, and one of the fastest growing in Brazil is breast augmentation. I think a lot of this is totally related to social media and Facebook. And it’s a different patient now, thanks to the Internet; they come in and sometimes they think they know more than you do. They’ve done research and if you don’t do the same new type of butt augmentation as this guy in Rio, well, they’re going to fly to Rio.”萨尔茨指出:“有了互联网以后,美就变得全球化了。这让一些巴西人想变得像安吉丽娜o朱莉。在美国,增长最快的领域之一是隆臀;在巴西则是隆胸。我想这在很大程度上都和社交媒体以及Facebook有关。受互联网影响,现在的整形者变得不一样了;有时候他们觉得他们比你知道的还多。他们已经做了研究,如果你不能像里约的某位医生一样给他们做新式隆臀,那他们就会飞到里约去。”Just as you’d expect, when Halvorson is at one of those social gatherings and says he’s a plastic surgeon, people tend to immediately mention “nose jobs” and “boob jobs.” Maybe now, based on some of the most striking data points in the ISAPS survey, they’ll also ask about penis jobs.正如大家所想的那样,当霍尔沃森在社交场合说他是一名整形医生,人们的立即反应往往是“鼻子”和“胸部”整形。现在,ISAPS中最引人注目的那些数据表明,人们也许还会问起男性生殖器整形。 /201408/317877

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